Pleasant Canyon - South Park Loop
Many of us who have frequented the 4WD trails of the Panamints for many years, now believe that this loop is the best remaining trail in the Panamints. It
certainly is a whole-day experience, and in fact, we've come down
off South Park in the dark a number of times, having seen sheep
at dusk higher up in the canyon. South Park is best avoided in
the dark, unless seeing sheep is important enough to you to endure
a really wild road in the dark.
Generally, people go up the Panamint Mountains via Pleasant Canyon, and that would be my recommendation. Pleasant Canyon Road goes straight up the mountain behind the Ballarat store. Say hello to Lightfoot Louie at the store and ask him for any new news about the loop trip. As a matter of fact, Louie usually has a Park Service handout about the trip that he can give you. Update: Louie wanted to get away from the hustle and bustle of life in Ballarat, (?????) and has moved up to a much more remote camp. Donna is the caretaker at the moment.
You will pass a number of
old mines on the way up, but the remains of Clair Camp is a very
significant landmark, and you will want to examine the machinery
and such that remains. Clair Camp has been terribly vandalized
after many years of having a caretaker to protect it. Believe
it or not, a sheriffs reserve unit from Southern California went
up there shortly after the caretaker was removed, and shot the
place up with thousands of rounds of automatic weapon fire. Did
the government sanction this vandalism to remove the likelihood
of squatters? I tend to think so. You're wondering now if I made
this up, but one of my most trusted desert fellow-travelers was
passing through Clair Camp when the cops were shooting it up.
On up from Clair Camp you
will come to the famous old World Beater Mine on the right. There
is a cabin there and you can see extensive new working including
a very good road to the top of the mountain where there is one
of the best views of the Panamint Valley available anywhere. Just
before you got to the World Beater, you passed and didn't notice
the Stone Corral off to the right of the road. It is easy to go
back and look at it. Apparently it was used as a rock corral by
some group of primitive people there on the mountain. At this
point there is road going off to the right that leads to a locked
gate and the Porter Mine. The Porter Mine is mined a few weeks
out of the year for its high quality jewelry gold.
Further on up, you will pass
Rita's cabin on the right in the trees. This is a wonderful lunch
stop and a chance to look around. From Rita's cabin there is a
steep road to the top of the Panamints to Roger's Pass where there
is a marker. You can see the whole world from this point and the
ridge that goes both right and left from this point. Go to the
right following the ridge top and you will get another splendid
view of Butte Valley and Striped Butte, both accessible from Goler
Wash but not from Pleasant Canyon. Up on top of the ridge you
can see a long straight road going off across Middle Park and
you will want to take this road, which joins South Park Canyon
trail for the trip back down to the valley. There in Middle Park
you will find the remains of the Rader Camp and the air strip
that Rader used to access this mine and dwelling of his.
Dropping down into South Park,
for part of the way, you follow the trail gouged out of the side
of the canyon wall until you reach the area that Rader or someone
blew out with dynamite to block access. The pictures that follow
are of this area, that is the real sphincter contractor of this
trip. The bridge was put across the blown-out area by a group
of folks who call themselves "Friends of Briggs Camp"
in cooperation with the BLM. One of their members told me that
the "Friends" did it for purely selfish reasons, but
even if that were true, it's a great boon for the rest of us.
If that bridge was on flat ground it probably wouldn't seem like
such a big deal, but going across it looking a thousand feet straight
down as you do it, makes the steering arm turn to the canyon wall
regardless of what the brain says.
There in the bottom of that
section of South Park are two cabins, one or both of which were
built by Harry Briggs the legendary miner from Redlands Canyon,
where the big heap-leach mining operation is now located. Explore
both cabins and read the log in the lower one. These cabins have
been adopted by the "Friends of Briggs Camp" and they
have done a remarkable amount of work there.
From this point, the road soon goes off to the right, up the hill, and then begins a very steep descent to the floor of the valley. The road you intersect in the valley floor goes off the North back to Ballarat, or South to Goler Wash.
Picture
#1 shows
a Toyota 4 Runner going around the very scary rocky point just
above the bridge. This Toyota belonged to Larry Angier who took
these 4 photos.
Picture
# 2 shows
the same vehicle crossing the bridge.
Picture
# 3 shows
a full size Chevy pickup 4WD coming down South Park. This pickup
is in the very capable hands of Desert Don, and you should not
jump to conclusions about this being a "piece of cake",
although my cousin followed us across this area in their almost
new Suburban, with minimum damage to anything except his ears.
(Wife screaming!)
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